Lost and Found: Hiking to Lost Lake in Seward, AK

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I don’t remember who first told me about Lost Lake in Alaska. Throughout the summer I worked at Base Camp hostel in Anchorage, guests who had made their way through the towns of Hope, Talkeetna, Whittier, McCarthy, or Fairbanks would share their must-sees and must-dos with me. Seward, Alaska in particular often garnered admiration, and Lost Lake, which sits on the much longer Iditarod National Historic Trail, was described with such reverence that it quickly made its way to the top of my list.

This day hike or overnight camping route in Chugach National Forest (not to be confused with Chugach State Park) is 14 miles point-to-point, which sounded like something I could accomplish leisurely in a span of a couple days before I was due back for my next hostel shift. When a guest expressed interest in visiting Seward as well, we joined together to embark on a hitchhiking adventure, arrived in good time, then split up. My next objective: head straight to Lost Lake Trail.

Getting to Lost Lake Trail from Seward, Alaska

If you don’t want to hitchhike from Anchorage to Seward and you don’t have a rental car, you can take the gorgeous Coastal Classic train ride or book a private transfer.

The Lost Lake trailhead is located off of Seward Highway at milepost 5; find it on Google Maps here. This is 5 or 6 miles down the highway from the main town of Seward. There is a free shuttle in town, but it doesn’t go this far. If you don’t feel like hitchhiking, you may need to hire a taxi.

I stood near Seward Highway for a moment and was picked up by a guy who was living out of his car so that he could spend his summers in Alaska and drive down to the lower 48 for winter seasonal jobs – a snowbird. He said he picked me up because he knew “the struggle,” and dropped me off right at the trailhead. Easy peasy.

Pre-Trip Planning Note: If you’re doing an overnight hike rather than a day hike, dispersed camping on Lost Lake Trail is available without a permit. Or, if you want to bunk overnight at the Dale Clemens Cabin, you need to make a reservation at Recreation.gov.

Lost Lake Trail Report:

Lost Lake Trail

The trail begins in what feels more like jungle than forest or mountain range. Vegetation grows in every direction, covered in thick moss, and this particular day it was so rainy, wet, and cold that I definitely understand why it’s classified as sub-polar rainforest. Blueberries (or maybe huckleberries, actually? Huckleberries grow separately whereas blueberries grow in clusters) grow along this portion of the trail, and groups of people with baskets were collecting them. I munched on berries as I skipped along, like an episode of Winnie the Pooh.

As I gained elevation the trees weren’t as numerous, and it grew colder as the rain fell steadier (check out my best waterproof rain gear here). I saw fewer and fewer people, and though gorgeous views of the mountain range and even a distant waterfall were replacing the trees, I had moments where I felt nervous to be alone in bear country. That is, until a trail runner in shorts with a flimsy drawstring backpack zipped past me totally unphased, which always gives me a humbling sort of whiplash.

Even higher still, a mist settled over the trail so thick that I couldn’t see more than a foot around me in any direction. The tree line was long gone now. I kept thinking that a bear could be right next to me and I would never even know it. This flatter meadow section was especially ethereal, and continued long enough to take on a dreamlike quality. The grass grew tall around my knees as I waded into unknown territory. At a three-pronged fork I came across a perfect campsite. It had a bear lockbox and a pit toilet situation, all within suitable distance from where I’d set up my tent. I hadn’t found any other spots like this, so I figured I’d better take advantage of it and set up for the night.

The next morning I discovered the fog and rain had cleared, and suddenly the entire landscape was glorious. The final stretch of the trail between my camp and Lost Lake followed along the pinnacle of a ridge that allowed me to see out over the whole mountain range on either side of me. I’m glad I saved this ridge walk for the morning. I felt like I was on top of the world. I easily imagined I was in some remote part of the Himalayas or Andes, though the mountains in the Chugach National Forest don’t reach such headache-inducing elevations.

At the last quarter mile before the lake I met cheerful marmots. When I looked up I saw a couple tents perched high on ridges overlooking the lake, and I did regret missing out on those prime camp spots. The lake itself was vast, blue, and clean, and I sat on the beach to take it in for probably an hour. I marveled at pretty pebbles, dipped my feet, and watched the water push and pull into little coves. I could see where other campers had recently set up fires right on the lake and left behind fishing lures and nutshells (a shame), but not a single person came along and not a single man-made sound interrupted. 

Forest Service Note: “Camping on Lost Lake is recommended at the designated campsites, some of which are equipped with bear boxes and pit toilets. Backpackers are strongly encouraged not to camp on the Lost Lake peninsulas so that tundra can grow back. [There are] many good backcountry camping opportunities in alpine area surrounding Lost Lake. Practice good Leave No Trace ethics and camp out of sight of the trail and 200′ from lakes and streams.”

Primrose Trail

When I finally left, the Primrose trail took me around the opposite side of the ridgeline with the tents. As one person stirred awake we waved to each other from afar, both just tiny ants to one another. For the next few miles I enjoyed passing over rivers and bridges, and then the landscape began to change as it had before, this time in reverse. Slowly I rejoined the trees, and scrambled downward into forests instead of pulling myself upward towards peaks. The route seemed deceivingly lengthy this time, and my limbs became exhausted much quicker. I was mentally ready to return once I’d resigned myself to the fact that I couldn’t stay at the lake forever. The berries reemerged and I began sharing the path with more and more bikers, hikers, and dogs.

Finally the end of the trail spit me out at a designated camping area just outside the Primrose trailhead, and I followed the now-paved Primrose Spur Road towards the intersection at Seward Highway where I thought I could find a ride. Flagging someone down took forever despite how I tried to reposition myself along the road. Finally a man pulled over to help, and it turned out to be the only hiker I’d met above treeline the prior day on the trail. At that time he had reassured me that I wasn’t lost (I’d been confused about which way to go at the campsite fork), and this time he dropped me off back in Seward’s town center. A true trail angel.

In Seward it was rainy again, and I found a coffee shop where I could gather myself until my friend and I met back up to camp and see Exit Glacier. The warmth felt too indulgent. It was strange to be inside, knowing all the while that Lost Lake was still out there, still beautiful. I think about that sometimes now, when I’m staring at four walls – how strange it is to know that such places exist, all on their own, all the time, without you there to behold it. Just waiting with open arms. 

Other Things to Do in Seward, Alaska

It’s worth spending a few days in Seward, which is a Kenai Peninsula port city right on the water. The town itself is quite small and walkable, so you may not spend a lot of time in the village itself; Seward is a base for getting out and about. Boat cruises, kayaking, fishing, and wildlife spotting are popular – especially when it comes to seals and whale watching! Seward is also a gateway town for exploring Kenai Fjords National Park.

From Seward: Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise with Lunch
Seward: Kenai Fjords National Park 6-Hour Cruise
From Seward: Half-Day Resurrection Bay Wildlife Cruise Tour
Moose Pass: Kayak Rental on Glacial Trail Lake
From Seward: Kenai River Guided Packrafting Trip with Gear

One of the most popular attractions in Seward is Exit Glacier, which is pretty accessible as a gentle self-guided day hike.

If you prefer a guided group hike instead self-guided, there are plenty of options in the Seward area and throughout Alaska. My favorite outfitter is Wildland Trekking.

From Seward: Harding Icefield Trail Day Hiking Tour
From Seward: 4-hour Wilderness Hiking Tour
Wildland Trekking multi-day Alaska hiking tours starting from Anchorage or Fairbanks

🏨 Find budget hostels in Seward here and standard hotel options here.
🏕️ Find free or paid campsites near Seward via The Dyrt.
✈️ Coming to Alaska from further afield? Use an Airalo eSIM for affordable international cell data and don’t forget to protect your investment with travel insurance.

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